Arambasici (Croatian Sour Cabbage Rolls)

Instructions

Chop the beef, ham or bacon, suet, pork and the mutton, if using, finely by hand and put them in a large bowl. Chopping rather than grinding keeps more of the meat's flavour.

Add the chopped onions, garlic, grated lemon rind, salt, pepper, a little cinnamon, the crushed cloves and a grind of nutmeg. Mix everything well, kneading with your hands if you like, until the seasonings are evenly spread through the meat.

Separate the leaves from the head of sauerkraut and set aside the best whole ones for stuffing. Cut away part of the thick stalk at the base of each leaf so it rolls easily.

Put a spoonful of the meat mixture on each leaf. Roll it up from the base and fold the ends in firmly so the roll will not come apart as it cooks.

Put a spoonful of grease in a deep stoneware casserole. Pack the rolls tightly side by side in the dish, and lay pieces of smoked pork, smoked ham or tongue between the layers.

Pour in enough broth or water to cover the rolls, then cover the casserole tightly. Cook over low heat for 3 to 4 hours, shaking the casserole several times but never stirring, so the rolls stay intact.

For best results, give the rolls their first cooking in the evening and finish cooking them the next day. In summer, if you cannot find sauerkraut, blanch fresh cabbage or grape leaves in boiling water to soften them, then fill and cook them the same way.