Pickled Green Mango (Aavakaaya)
Aavakaaya is the fiery mustard and chile mango pickle of Andhra kitchens, built from hard, sour, fibrous green mangoes. The trick is leaving a piece of stone on every cut chunk and coating the fruit in sesame oil before any spice touches it, which keeps the flesh firm for months. Fenugreek adds a faint bitterness, and garlic rounds out the heat. Make it once and a jar will carry you to the next mango season.
Instructions
Soak the raw mangoes in water for 10 minutes, then dry them thoroughly with a clean cloth. Cut each mango in half lengthwise so the hard stone is split too, with part of it left on each half. Remove the seed and scrape the thin layer clinging to the stone with a spoon.
Cut each half into 4 or 5 pieces, making sure every piece keeps a portion of the stone, since pieces without it soften too fast. Wipe the pieces with a dry cloth, never wash them, and put them in a large basin.
Sprinkle the turmeric over the mango and mix with dry hands. Pour in half of the oil and mix well. The oil must go on before any other ingredient, because it helps the pieces stay firm. Then mix in the powdered salt.
In a separate container, combine the mustard powder, chile powder, garlic paste and fenugreek powder. Add half of the remaining oil and work it until the mixture holds together when squeezed in a fist.
Mix this paste thoroughly into the mango pieces, then add the last of the oil and mix again. Cover the basin firmly with a lid, or move the pickle to a porcelain jar or clean plastic container with a tight lid. Tie a thick cloth over the top and store it on a cool, dark shelf.
After 3 to 4 days, open the container, stir well and taste. Add a small amount of salt or chile powder only if needed, just enough to adjust the taste. Stir in the garlic flakes now if you want them. By the third day oil should float on the surface; if the pickle is not covered, add a little more oil and mix.
Transfer the pickle to clean, dry glass, plastic or porcelain jars. Keep every tool, hand and container dry throughout, since any moisture will spoil it.
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