Maharashtrian Baingan Bartha (South Indian Eggplant with Chili)
Baingan bartha is smoked eggplant mashed by hand and finished with a sizzling tadka of mustard seed, cumin and green chile. This Maharashtrian version leans on green onion and fresh peas, which add sweetness and a little crunch against the soft, charred flesh. Blackening the skin directly over flame is the step that matters, since it gives the dish its smoky depth. A cooked variation with turmeric is also included.
Instructions
Wash the eggplants and wipe them dry, then rub a little oil over the skin of each one. Blacken them over direct heat, or char-roast them in an oven or over a fire if you want a smokier flavor.
When the skin is black and slips off at a touch, let the eggplants cool a little. Peel away the burnt skin and keep any drippings to one side.
Mash the flesh by hand until smooth and move it to a large bowl. Stir in the green onion, the green garlic if you are using it, the peas and salt to taste.
Heat some oil in a pan until hot. Add the rai first, then the cumin seeds, then the green chiles, and let the chiles fry for 10 to 12 seconds.
Pour the spiced oil over the eggplant mixture and mix well. Serve it with bhakri and the thecha described in the source.
For a cooked version, prepare the eggplant mixture the same way, then add the turmeric to the pan right after the chiles. Tip the eggplant mixture into the tadka and sauté for 1 to 2 minutes, adding a little of the reserved drippings if it needs moisture. Serve hot.
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