Ossobuco alla Milanese

Instructions

Heat the oven to 350°F. If the butcher has not already done it, tie kitchen twine around the middle of each shank so it holds its shape while cooking.

Choose a heavy, lidded roasting pan or Dutch oven that just fits the shanks in one layer. Add the butter, two tablespoons of the oil, the onion, celery and carrot, and cook over medium heat for about 8 minutes until the vegetables have wilted. Stir in the garlic and lemon peel, cook about 2 minutes more until fragrant, then take the pan off the heat.

In a skillet, heat the remaining oil until it is nearly smoking. Dust the shanks lightly with flour, then brown them well on both cut sides. Set them on top of the vegetables in the pan.

Pour the wine into the skillet and boil it down by half, scraping up the browned bits from the bottom. Pour this over the shanks.

Bring the broth to a boil in the same skillet, whisking in the tomato paste and anchovies. Add it to the pan with the thyme, bay leaves, several grindings of pepper and a large pinch of salt. The liquid should come about three quarters of the way up the shanks, so add water if it falls short.

Bring the pot to a simmer, cover it and put it in the oven for about 2 hours. Turn and baste the shanks every half hour, and if the liquid is nearly gone, add hot water about half a cup at a time. The veal is ready when a fork goes in easily and the meat is falling from the bone.

Lift the shanks onto a platter, remove the strings and cover them to keep warm. Set the pan over high heat and boil the liquid down until the sauce is thick and creamy. Pour it over the shanks and serve.